Climbing sling reddit I’m looking to mark my quickdraws, biners, slings, and particularly my rope. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. Snag a set of trango or dmm offsets and that should cover you for most nut placements you'll run into Shorter slings (30cm/12 in. Seems like people don't like one sling with a sliding x. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Same as before More slings I had picked up some older draws that have mainly Black Diamond biners and Petzl slings but they're pretty old. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Nov 9, 2021 · A PAS is not necessary for multipitch. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. if it is, you did something else very wrong. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Either way I think half my climbing gear is Mammut ropes and slings. If you have other suggestions I am open Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. Sorry in advance, but I don't have any videos to link at short notice. minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. If it was rope, there could be a concern after the 10th time or something but you would notice it stiffening up before it became a concern. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' I've been climbing OBSESSIVELY for 7 years and over that time the injury either slowly happened, or was already there and climbing just accelerated it. Pad the tree and use it as a monolith. As far as climbing, if you're new climbers, I'd suggest staying in Muir Valley. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. Good luck! A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. . 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. What’s the… I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. 5 can vary from 0. I had had a couple of cortisone injections and a LOT of PT before going in for an MRI after a slight residual stinging sensation was still present. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. 5/1 = fall factor 5 Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. So you're safely within that range. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. 3 of my friends and I all have the same mammut infinity rope. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. Multipitch rappelling generally requires some kind of tether, in which case a sling or a PAS will suffice. Aid climbing). Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. 3 to 0. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. The one caveat is that if you spray your ropes or slings, the wet/sticky may attract dirt which will work it's way into the fabric. That means 3 meters between bolts to stop your fall. If you're sport climbing, in most cases there'll be two bolts, or chains or something - you can (usually) clip a quickdraw to each, and then Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Get a 100ft static 8mm line. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb Yeah, this is probably the best way. Thanks in advance, everyone. But the point is that the range doesn't matter much because climbing isn't about static loads, it's about dynamic loads during falls. Its a privately owned chunk of land that is fully open to climbers. Yes! They do a great job with this, and it doesn't cost a lot of money. As others have said. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. So slings threaded through so called hour-glasses or knots, jammed into crevices are fine. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. I mostly just use mine to keep my rack organized and in one place. Whether that's just public perception or their marketing focus or both, I dunno. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Ropes are designed so that the energy from an average dynamic fall is reduced to less than 10kN. Agreed. If your lanyard is 1 meter long and you fall 1 meter above the last bolt, that means a 5 meter fall. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. I probably wouldn't even have one if I hadn't got it with a bunch of cams I bought used. and shorter) are a tweener size that wouldn't be used often; some climbers use them for tying off pitons. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. Is the quad preferable because the cordette is doubled up so there is redundancy if one strand breaks? Theoretically, one can also double up on slings (both slings to both anchors, still with 4 carabiners) and achieve the same thing? Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. 12c-ish plateau. I hate climbing with a sling unless I am carrying more gear than a harness can carry (i. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. All the binding and slings are purely nylon-based, which won't be affected by having gone through the washing machine once less than a butt-load of times. I think they're just known more for equipment and hard-goods than your usual softgood focused brands (TNF, Patagonia, Marmot, etc. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) In a ferrata usually the cable is attached to the wall every 3 meters. A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Sling Materials. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. And its considered the center of Red River Gorge climbing (anytime a local gives you directions to a crag, odds are the route starts at Miguel's). Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. ). You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Its heavily developed with 20-some excellent sport not a great idea. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Keep slack out of your static anchors. We went all out. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. IMO no loops are required on a gear sling. For Multi-pitch. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. Depends on your local climbing area. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. Love their stuff. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. In most cases, when people are talking about tying in with the rope as opposed to a PAS, it's when tying into an anchor for multipitch climbing. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. The climbing rope is strong, dynamic, and can be adjusted to any length you need. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. Read “Climbing Anchors” by John long. WD-40, lube, alcohol solvents/spirits, petrol, Teflon sprays, degreaser all have no real effect on climbing soft goods. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. You’ll figure it out, you just need a better understanding of the basics. Or two singles. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Nope, it doesn't matter really at all. e. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still super good enough. And yes, I have a single set of Black Diamond Camalot C4's to size #4 and a full set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. the knot might snag. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Those slings aren’t nearly long enough to reduce angles enough. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I really love their color scheme but my understanding is that I should probably replace the slings since the general consensus is to replace soft goods every 5-10 years. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. While it is nice that a lot of the Master Cams fit in between the C4 sizes, I've found it difficult to get good at remembering which will be the If you want to know more about the ethics involved in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. ) Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. 6 million pounds. Will deploy… I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. You can easily connect to the anchor using the climbing rope and a clove hitch, it is pretty much the standard method. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. For years the main material in climbing slings has been nylon. Quickdraw slings are presewn slings that let you make your own 'draws by adding the carabiners you choose. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. com but the gist of it is: Absolutely no metal gear allowed on the rock, only textiles. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. wdkazhtfadfilqsrpumrbhkzaritvawsqvfvisfmshrejnftktjqxnctvanrmxzpsmsgdwpcupr